Monday, March 19, 2012

Quirky Quinta da Regaleira - Sintra, Portugal

After an exhilarating day climbing mountains, to reach the fanciful Pena Palace and the ruins of the 1,000 year old Moorish castle, both perched high on the hills overlooking the town of Sintra, I stumbled upon another unexpected delight.  As I neared the bottom of the hill on my walk back into town, I noticed signage for Quinta da Regaleira, a turn of the 20th century palace that is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.  The brief description in my guidebook sold me with promises of caves and other enchanted goodies scattered across its extensive grounds. So without a moment’s hesitation, I set off in that direction.


The predominately neo-Manueline mansion was built by an Italian opera-set designer and is layered with a fusion of several other architectural styles giving it a whimsical look. The mansion itself is worth touring, but it’s the grounds of the property that beg to be explored. Armed with a map written entirely in Portuguese, I did my best to decipher what sites lurked along the meandering footpaths in the nine acre parkland built into the hillside.


The park boasts of a Roman Catholic chapel, man-made lakes with waterfalls, hidden moss covered wells, dewy grottoes, and the odd turret topped towers. 



  

The highlight for me was the quite extensive network of underground passageways peppered throughout the park. Waterfall Lake is one such entrance to the caves.

Just hop the stone pathway across the lake and duck into the cave.

Follow the eerily lit corridor that twists and turns before spitting you out into the bottom of the initiation well.

Far overhead, a burst of sunlight beckons you to climb the impressive stone spiral staircase wrapped around the initiation well.

Round and round you climb, until you are once again above ground. 

Peer back over the edge of the initiation well for a view of the tile work lining the bottom of the well.

Proud to have braved the darkness and the unknown on my own, I set off with a spring in my step in search of whatever surprise was tucked away around the  next bend.
Bring a flashlight, a sense of adventure, and make sure to put this on your list of places to see in Sintra.

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