Travel Reflections - Hogmanay 2001

View of Edinburgh from Carlton Hill by day

It took a great amount of willpower to leave the warmth of the crackling fire behind with our empty pints at The Ensign Ewart pub. Spilling out of the pub onto the Royal Mile, we are hit at once with a chill that worms its way expertly underneath our winter coats and gloves and seeps into our bones. Pausing briefly, we take a deep breath and join the throngs of people clogging the street for the start of the “river of fire”.

It is 2001 and the first night of the 3-day Edinburgh’s Hogmanay Festival.  Scottish for the last day of the year, Hogmanay is also the Scottish celebration of the New Year. For over twenty years, Edinburgh has hosted one of the biggest Hogmanay festivals in Scotland attracting upwards of 100,000 people. The festival starts with the Torchlight Procession on December 29^th and ends with a concert in the park on December 31^st.

Five of us took the train up from London to experience New Year’s Eve, Scottish style. Uncertain about what to expect during the festival, we decide to partake in the Torchlight Procession that very evening. We had tucked into a pub after exploring Edinburgh Castle many hours ago and were now ready to face the dark wintry night.

Photo courtesy of bbc.co.uk

The start of the Torchlight Procession, also called the “river of fire” begins at the top of the Royal Mile and snakes its way along the cobbled streets up to Carlton Hill. Jostling our way into the crowds, we start the slow meandering march down the street mesmerized by the sounds of drums and pipes floating through the air.  We stop to buy lit torches from someone on the street and proudly join our fellow torch bearers on the journey to Carlton Hill. We eagerly clutch our torches close to us with wild grins on our faces, amazed that we are allowed to walk around freely with a stick of fire.

Photo courtesy of bbc.co.uk

Surrounded by families and fellow festival goers of all ages, who are also armed with fire, we make out the shape of a Viking long ship at the head of the parade.  Waving our torches in tune to the music, we follow the Viking long ship to the top of Carlton Hill. With a view of Edinburgh sparkling in the night below us, we surround the area where the Viking long ship now rests after the long walk and cheer as it is set on fire. The glorious guest of honor dances beneath the flames as fire quickly works its way through the wood. Moments later, the Viking long ship is no more.

Leaving the party on Carlton Hill, we sadly extinguish our torches knowing our brief time as torch bearers was just a delicious moment to be savored and make our way to the nearest pub. If this was the start of Hogmanay, we couldn’t wait see what other unexpected treats we were in for.