The Long March

Even after being in the country for over a week, I am still surprised by the daunting heat that hits me as I board the long-tail boat that ferries me from the train station to the island of Ayutthaya, the former capital of Thailand. As my travel companion and I push our way through the gaggle of food carts and impromptu markets, I realize that I have no idea where we are going.

I went through my mental guidebook and realized that I had read quite a bit about the historical sites that I wanted to see on this day trip, but didn't pay much attention to the logistical details. I had envisioned that I would arrive to the island by boat and there would be miles and miles of temple ruins bordered by the three rivers that intersected the city. Sadly that romantic vision was not to be. Ayutthaya was a thriving congested city and there wasn’t a temple in sight.

After regrouping and pulling out a map of the area, I realized that the main sites were a few miles from where I was standing. My travel mate, never one to waste an opportunity to walk, convinced me that we could easily walk there. So off we went.

It instantly hit me that the heat was going to be the biggest challenge that I faced that day. I found myself so absorbed with complaining about the heat that I couldn’t properly enjoy the chaotic street scenes surrounding me. Tuk-tuk drivers kept sidling up offering rides to the sites. They would shake their heads in confusion when they were turned away. I felt compelled to point out to my friend that the guidebooks suggested riding bikes to the sites or hiring a tuk-tuk driver to help explore the temples, but there was no mention of walking. And now I knew why.

As we finally approached Ayutthaya Historical Park and the Khmer-shaped prang of Wat Ratchaburana came into view, I forgot about the sweat running down my face and arms. The stark beauty of the temple ruins gave me a renewed sense of energy. I mopped off my sun-drenched face best I could and set off to explore the crumbling palace walls, the headless Buddha’s, and the numerous temples of this ancient city.

As I left the World Heritage Site, I couldn’t help but be overwhelmed by all the beauty and history that I was fortunate enough to explore firsthand. And it has to be said; I also felt a strong sense of triumph as I climbed into the tuk-tuk for my journey back to the train station. Ayutthaya looked even better with the wind blowing through my hair!