Splendid Sognefjord

Standing on the deck of the boat, I am surrounded by three different climates. To my left, the sun is blazing bright in the electric blue sky. To my right, fingers of fog swirl and cloak the mountains. Behind me, heavy mist falls obscuring the wake of the boat. I guess this is springtime in Norway.

Norway may not be known for its grand weather, but it is known for its fjords. The largest and most famous fjord in Norway is the Sognefjord. The Sognefjord is also the world’s second longest fjord at approximately 127 miles. Too often travelers only experience the Sognefjord by boat as they travel from Bergen to Flam (or Flam to Bergen) as part of a tour called Norway in a Nutshell. While the scenery from the ferry is spectacular, you miss out exploring the treasures of the fjord villages along the way.

This was my first trip to Norway and my goal was to hike in the sparkling mountains of Balestrand and visit the historic churches of Vik before heading to Oslo.

I caught the early morning ferry from Bergen, where I had started my journey three days before. The four-hour ferry ride to Balestrand glides past mountains still lightly dusted with winter snow and the air is crisp and pure. The nearby glaciers have turned the water surrounding Balestrand a surprising silky shade of green-blue.

Balestrand

This sleepy fjord village, located at the junction of three fjords, has a vibrant population of 800 people. The Kviknes Hotel is the centerpiece of Balestrand and stands majestically on the water’s edge near the ferry dock.

Besides the restaurant at the historic hotel, there is only one other place to dine this time of year, The Golden House. Luckily there are two small grocery stores to help supplement supplies. The limited distractions help to acclimatize you to life in the country.

Mountains and water dominate the landscape and beg to be explored. The Balestrand hiking trails are strenuous and well-kept. The dazzling reward from the top is overwhelming in its beauty.

The air is filled with the sounds of the healthy-sized bumble bees buzzing as loudly as a NASCAR race and bell-wearing sheep are likely to be the only traffic you encounter.

The town also boasts of several significant Viking burial mounds and a 19th century church, St. Olaf, which was reconstructed in the style of a Stave church.

Vik

The fjord village of Vik is a great option for a day trip from Balestrand. Vik, which is twice the size of Balestrand, is quiet and largely left untouched by travelers. Vik has a variety of historic churches to explore. Three of the most significant churches can be reached on foot.

The shining crown of Vik is the Hopperstad church, built in circa 1130. It has the distinction of being one of only 28 remaining Stave churches in the country.

Vik also possesses a stone Roman church, the Hove, which was built circa 1150.

Along the main country road, there is also a delightful 19th century church with a graveyard that you can wander around.

If your travels should take you to the fjords of Norway, the serenity and beauty of the Sognefjord villages are inspiring and should not be overlooked.