Cities of the Dead

Who finds the idea of visiting a cemetery an odd activity when exploring a new city?

Not me.

But based on reactions I received recently when I did just that, I get the impression that it isn’t for everyone.

“You went to a cemetery when you were in New Orleans? Why?” friend after friend inquired perplexed by this event.

Why indeed. Truth be told, I have a fascination with 18th and 19th century cemeteries. In particular, ones that have grand ornate above ground tombs, the more elaborate the better. I love strolling along the paths admiring the architecture and the stillness of these miniature cities. The unexpected beauty and serenity of these ancient burial grounds create an ideal atmosphere to reflect on life and clear my head. Cemeteries from this time also provide intriguing insight into the history of the city.

Here are three cemeteries that I recommend exploring.


Père Lachaise Cemetery - Paris, France

This grand dame of a cemetery began in 1804, when burial grounds were created outside Paris to keep potential disease away from the city center. Perhaps the world’s most well-known cemetery, it has long been a memorial park for the rich and famous. Considered the largest park in Paris, one can spend hours wandering along the named avenues lined with leafy trees admiring the ornamental tombs. It is also a popular destination for locals who seek out the well-placed stone benches to read or have lunch. A few of the most famous inhabitants are Frédéric Chopin, Oscar Wilde, and the controversial resident, Jim Morrison. Guided and self-walking tours are available.

Highgate Cemetery - London, England

This mossy Victorian Era cemetery began as a resting place in 1839. However, the cemetery fell into hard times in the 1960s and was derelict for many years until the volunteers of The Friends of Highgate Cemetery took it over. Perched on a hill in North London, it is still an operating cemetery. The architecture is a mix of Tudor style chapels, Egyptian style vaults, and Victorian style statues.

The approach of The Friends of Highgate Cemetery is to let nature live in harmony with the marble tombs and headstones, leaving the green-trunked trees and hearty vegetation that has grown entwined with its silent residents largely intact. Famous Highgate inhabitants include Karl Marx and authors Douglas Addams and George Eliot. The cemetery is divided into two sections, East and West. West Highgate is only accessible via a tour, while East Highgate can be explored on your own after paying a small donation.

St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 – New Orleans, Louisiana

New Orleans oldest and most renowned cemetery was built in 1789. The perimeter of this City of the Dead is lined with marble wall vaults, while the heart of the cemetery is filled with whitewashed tombs surrounded by individual wrought iron gates. Little to no trees or plants can be found within the graveyard, creating a very stark setting. It is still a functioning cemetery where prominent and ordinary folks have buried generations of family members. The cemetery is separated into two sections, Catholic and Protestant. Famous New Orleanians buried here include Homer Plessy, an early pioneer of civil rights, Bernard de Marigny, who introduced the game of craps to the United States, and the Voodoo priestess Marie Laveau, who many believe to be buried here. While one can explore this cemetery on their own, a guided tour with the nonprofit group, Save Our Cemeteries, provides an insightful overview of this historic place.