Vacation With A Purpose

Life has certainly been interesting this past year. As many of you know, I’ve made some big changes recently and I’m currently forging a new life path on my own. I am slowly finding my footing and I am anxious for what this next chapter in life will mean for me. Part of this new journey is about challenging and exposing myself to new adventures where I can learn and grow from others. Traveling has always been my preferred choice for just such things and has already played an enormous part of my growth throughout the years. When faced with two weeks of vacation that I typically take off around Christmas to travel, I thought long and hard about what I wanted to do for my first big solo event. Somehow the thought of traveling just for the sake of travel sounded empty and while a break from life was needed, I didn’t exactly feel like celebrating with the usual holiday. I wanted to do something productive and completely out of my comfort zone.

While researching travel destinations that fit this criteria, I decided to look into global volunteer opportunities. A close friend of mine had done two tours of building homes with Habitat for Humanity during law school and inspired me to check out this organization. As luck would have it, the only Habitat for Humanity volunteer opportunity offered during the holiday season was with their Global Village program in China!

To be honest, China wasn’t high on my list of places to visit next. Not sure why, but I think the size of the country is intimidating in the same manner that India and Africa are and it certainly wasn’t a place I ever envisioned traveling to on my own.  Figuring I had nothing to lose, I applied and interviewed for a volunteer position building a house in the Guangdong Providence in Southern China. When I received the acceptance letter a few days later, I knew I had picked the correct path. Everything about this decision just felt right.

Here are some details of the China build:

Being a Tourist in My Own Backyard

I have a confession to make. I have lived in San Diego for eight years and this past weekend was my first visit to one of the city’s fine museums. To make matters worse, I live two blocks from the heart of Balboa Park, which houses 15 museums alone, and I walk past each one of them several times a week when I am out on a ramble. Disgraceful.

I love museums and will often visit cities near and far just for the chance to explore various collections. When I first moved to San Diego, I enthusiastically toured the delights of the city. But the emphasis was largely on the natural beauty of the beaches, coastal life, and enjoying the glorious year-round weather. For some reason, the museums went untouched and unnoticed. As the years went by and I settled into a routine, exploring new places in my adopted hometown became less of a priority. I took the city’s culture offerings for granted knowing I could visit at a moment’s notice. Yet, I never did.

The Toulouse-Lautrec's Paris: Selections from the Baldwin M. Baldwin Collection at the San Diego Museum of Art is what finally got me out of the house and pushed me to do something cultural in my own backyard.

The collection showcased over a 100 works of art that haven’t been shown together in more than 20 years. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864–1901) is a French Post-Impressionist artist who is probably best known for his lithography posters; in particular posters depicting the late-19th-century bohemian lifestyle in Paris. He was a fixture in the bars and cabarets in Montmarte and his sketches of the patrons often became focal points in his artwork.

Mastering the Art of Solo Travel

There is nothing I like more than to be on my own in a big city. Being solo in a big city means the possibility of being anonymous and going entirely unnoticed since you are one among many as the locals go about their day. I love feeling invisible as I slink in and out of museums, cafes, pubs, and shops along my journey. The freedom empowers me and there is a decadent delicious excitement when faced with the prospect of having no one’s agenda for the day, but my own.

Up until very recently all of my solo travel has existed in big cities. I tend to explore less of the tourist areas and concentrate on the heart of the city itself. I like to imagine what it would be like to live in different North American and European cities as I get coffee alongside the locals during their morning commute, encounter them on their lunch breaks, and frequent the same places where they celebrate the end of their workday. I am a voyeur at heart and can spend hours observing people and their interactions and watching life unfold around me. The buzz of the city creates an energy which stimulates and inspires me creatively.

Pictures of the Moment - Aloha

Oahu by day

Oahu by night

Magnificent Seven - Brompton Cemetery

                                                      Part III of III

The final cemetery from my Magnificent Seven adventure is the “open-air cathedral” designed Brompton Cemetery.

Cemetery: Brompton Cemetery; originally known as West of London and Westminster Cemetery

Established: Planned in 1836 and opened in 1840
Location: Old Brompton Road in South West London
Size: 205,000 people buried on 39 acres
Architecture: Great Circle, the main thoroughfare, is said to be based on Piazza at St. Peter’s in Rome; includes domed chapel, colonnades, and catacombs
Famous inhabitants: Political activists and leader of the British suffragette movement, Emmeline Pankhurst and shipping tycoon, Sir Samuel Cunard
Notable items of interest:

• Only Crown cemetery
• Close to 35,000 memorials
• Beatrix Potter took the names of many of her animal characters from the gravestones in Brompton, including one Peter Rabbett

Magnificent Seven - Abney Park

Part II of III

This week’s cemetery is the neglected, overgrown, and hauntingly beautiful Abney Park.

Cemetery: Abney Park Cemetery
Established: 1840
Location: Stoke Newington High Street in North East London
Size: 750,000 people buried on 32 acres
Architecture: Egyptian revival entryway; Gothic style Chapel
Famous inhabitants: Salvation Army founders, William and Catherine Booth
Notable items of interest:

• First non-denominational cemetery in London to house dissenters
• First non-denominational chapel in Europe
• First arboretum cemetery in London

Magnificent Seven - Kensal Green Cemetery

Part I of III

In preparation for my recent trip to London, I began researching 19th century cemeteries to explore and I stumbled on the Magnificent Seven. The Magnificent Seven refers to an 1832 bill that Parliament passed encouraging the creation of seven private cemeteries on the outskirts of London to help deal with the population swell and decline. Turns out, I have already been to one of the Magnificent Seven, Highgate Cemetery, which I wrote about in a previous post.

This trip, I explored three more of the Magnificent Seven. Over the next few posts, I will give a snapshot of each one. This week’s cemetery is Kensal Green, the first of London’s garden cemeteries.

Cemetery: Kensal Green (All Souls) Cemetery
Established: 1832
Location: Harrow Road in West London
Size: 75 acres
Architecture: Greek revival

Picture of the Moment - All Hallows’ Eve

Autumn day - Abney Park Cemetery in London

Classy

I couldn’t resist sharing this exciting milestone. I traveled to London in complete style on Friday. After tens of thousands of miles globetrotting around the world on United Airlines, I am finally seeing some rewards for my loyalty. On this journey I was able to use a systemwide upgrade certificate to upgrade to Business Class for my flight from Denver to London Heathrow. Not just any Business Class seat, but United’s brand new Business Class seats that they are rolling out to their newly configured Boeing 777’s. Lie-flat beds! 15in screens! I must say it was quite an enjoyable way to travel.

Truth be told, I almost wish I didn’t know how the other half live on the long international flights. Must push these memories aside when I am on my long flight to Hong Kong in December.

London - How Do I Love Thee?

My heart races wildly. The palms of my hands turn cold and clammy and the anticipation makes me feel slightly lightheaded and a little giddy. Okay, very giddy. I must look a sight grinning as if I alone am holding the secret to happiness. And maybe I am. This is how I feel whenever I think of being in London. I can’t help it. I am hopelessly, helplessly, utterly in love.

It wasn’t love at first sight. When I first visited London 14 years ago, at the start of a three year on-again off-again residency in England, I was overwhelmed by the vastness of the city, the bustling crowded streets, and potpourri of architecture lurking around every corner. But after a few months of courtship, these are the very qualities that stole my heart and quite honestly, I haven’t been the same since. The life and energy of this historic, hodgepodge, and chaotic city, beckon to me frequently and I just can’t resist visiting as often as I can.

On each visit, I carve out time to see dear friends, revisit favorite haunts, and have new adventures. And believe me, there are always new adventures to be had. In honor of my annual journey to London this month, I decided to put together a top ten list of things I love to do when visiting London. This was harder to do that than I thought; many gems didn’t make it this round. Perhaps it just means that there will be future love letters to London.

Current favorite things are:

My First Love

Being that thoughts of travel are never far from my focus, it is hard for me to recall a time when I wasn’t passionate about travel and history. Yet, when looking back, the first seeds of my passion were only ignited my sophomore year of college when I took my first art history class. I was in no way prepared for the impact that this class would have on me and the strong foundation it gave me when I started my first travel adventures a year and half later.

From day one, the professor’s zest for art history transported me to a world I had never been exposed to and that I hungered to be a part of. Art and the history of ancient cultures came to life under his touch. He was a magical storyteller and would regale the class with tales of political intrigue, deceit, love and all sorts of juicy historical tidbits expertly woven alongside his own travel tales. I can still vividly recall his stories about zooming down the narrow cobbled streets of Venice on a motorcycle, or seeing Michelangelo’s Moses housed in San Pietro in Vincoli in Rome for the first time, or what he felt when roaming the marble corridors of the Louvre surrounded by unimaginable treasures. Fifteen years later, I still think of him when I encounter a painting or sculpture that I studied during that semester with him.

Picture of the Moment - San Diego Bay at Sunset

October Sunset



Kudos!

Last week, the 2010 edition of The Best American Travel Writing was published. I was delighted to find out that David Farley, my talented Gotham Writers’ Workshop travel writing instructor, was one of the lucky few to be recognized for his work; in particular his article, On the Perils of Travel Writing. Congratulations to David and heartfelt thanks for all his support and encouragement when I first started writing about my travel adventures. Thanks for another healthy dose of inspiration to keep me moving forward!

Munich Treasures

It’s that time of year again. Yes, that’s right, Oktoberfest is upon us. As we mourn the end of long hazy summer days, autumn does its best to seduce us with displays of dazzling colored trees, crisp refreshing air, and most importantly fantastic seasonal beer. Around the world, cities commence the start of autumn by celebrating Oktoberfest. The original and largest celebration of Oktoberfest is in Munich, Germany. The festival began in 1810.

In honor of the 200th anniversary of Oktoberfest and the great city of Munich, here are my favorite spots to sample glorious steins of German nectar and while away the afternoon when I am visiting this grand city.

Viktualienmarkt

For me, a visit to Munich is not complete without spending time in the Viktualienmarkt beer garden. Viktualienmarkt is a gourmet farmers market from 1807 and is centrally located just blocks from the Marienplatz. Bustling communal tables nestled under chestnut trees are filled with families and friends drinking liters of Hofbrau and dining alfresco on the fresh local produce, cheese, and bread. More intimate than the other famous beer gardens in Munich, this is a fantastic spot to catch the locals in action.

Picture of the Moment - Sunrise in Balboa Park

Morning walk in Balboa Park

Turkish Bathing Beauty

As I lay buried under six inches of foaming soap bubbles covering me from head to toe, I wondered how I had talked myself into this. The word bath conjures up images of relaxation, solitude, and warmth. Warmth is the only thing I seemed to have gotten. Heat from the large circular marble platform I was lying on and the warm flush of my lost modesty. Perhaps the relaxation and solitude were still to come, I thought hopefully.

The practice of the Turkish Bath or Hamam, is centuries old. The Cemberlitas Hamami is a popular Turkish bathhouse in the heart of Istanbul that reigns from the 16th century. On day three of my week long holiday in Istanbul, I decided to partake in this ancient ritual. Given that I am fairly shy, it was only three years ago that I had finally succumbed and had my first massage in Thailand on a previous Christmas adventure. While I knew I wanted to try the Turkish baths, I still had a hint of apprehension cloaking me.

Torrential rain drove me to the Hamam that day. After seeking refuge in the Grand Bazaar, I wandered around the stalls until the power went out, leaving me with some time on my hands. All signs were pointing for me to visit the Hamam. Standing outside I watched as droves of locals and the odd tourist confidently went inside. I took a deep breath before making my way down the slippery marble stairs to the front desk of the Haman.

After getting my token and washcloth, an attendant arrives and takes me up the winding staircase to the women’s communal dressing room where she shows me to my locker and hands me slippers and a checkered pestamel, my towel. I change into my pestamel and go back downstairs to the staging room where a female attendant is folding towels. She gestures for me to go in the double doors to my right.

The Occidental Tourist Continued

The drive from Occidental to the Pacific coast is approximately 10 miles. The most scenic route is along Coleman Valley Road, which offers stunning views of the valley and the ocean in the distance. As you get closer to the water, the trees start disappearing and the windswept hills are dotted with rock outcrops. Here, the roads are shared with hearty cyclists braving the steep twists and turns along the rolling hills. Coleman Valley Road ends at Hwy 1 midway between the towns of Jenner and Bodega Bay. Along this 10.5 mile stretch there are twelve dramatic beaches to explore. The morning haze had burned off leaving the sun to shimmer and dance across the water.

The Occidental Tourist

What does a Colorado native, who has been transplanted to San Diego, crave? Trees and mountains! Real trees and real hills. Not the glamorous palm trees that are outside my window right now. Bushy green leafy trees that provide shade and spill onto the sidewalk. Not gentle rolling hills covered in desert scrub. I miss hills that make me breathless and trails covered in pine needles. To satisfy this craving, I decided to explore the Redwoods of Sonoma County in Northern California. After scouring the vast amount of options available in Sonoma County, I chose Occidental as my base.

Occidental is a charming town approximately 70 miles north of San Francisco. The town is surrounded by Redwoods and the coveted green leafy hills. I stayed at the Inn at Occidental, which is a beautiful property perched on a hillside that hosts wine tasting nightly on its wraparound porch overlooking the town.

Picture of the Moment - Golden Gate Bridge

Driving over the Golden Gate Bridge on a foggy Friday night

Splendid Sognefjord

Standing on the deck of the boat, I am surrounded by three different climates. To my left, the sun is blazing bright in the electric blue sky. To my right, fingers of fog swirl and cloak the mountains. Behind me, heavy mist falls obscuring the wake of the boat. I guess this is springtime in Norway.

Norway may not be known for its grand weather, but it is known for its fjords. The largest and most famous fjord in Norway is the Sognefjord. The Sognefjord is also the world’s second longest fjord at approximately 127 miles. Too often travelers only experience the Sognefjord by boat as they travel from Bergen to Flam (or Flam to Bergen) as part of a tour called Norway in a Nutshell. While the scenery from the ferry is spectacular, you miss out exploring the treasures of the fjord villages along the way.

This was my first trip to Norway and my goal was to hike in the sparkling mountains of Balestrand and visit the historic churches of Vik before heading to Oslo.

The Best Watering Holes in New Orleans

One of my favorite things to do, when visiting a new city, is to explore the local drinking establishments. To me, bars are the ideal place to people watch, taste local libations, and get a small glimpse into the local culture. In a city known for its love of revelry and debauchery, New Orleans was an optimal choice for my pub crawl tour. My agenda was to get to know the city through its bars and go beyond Bourbon Street.

In the name of research (of course!), I explored 20 different bars in the French Quarter and the Garden District over a three-day period. As with most things in life, there were some winners and a few bars that didn’t leave much of an impression. Overall, the outcome was a resounding success. I found many local gems, was greeted with overwhelming hospitality, and indulged in many local beers.

Here are the top ten winners of my trip:

Cities of the Dead

Who finds the idea of visiting a cemetery an odd activity when exploring a new city?

Not me.

But based on reactions I received recently when I did just that, I get the impression that it isn’t for everyone.

“You went to a cemetery when you were in New Orleans? Why?” friend after friend inquired perplexed by this event.

Why indeed. Truth be told, I have a fascination with 18th and 19th century cemeteries. In particular, ones that have grand ornate above ground tombs, the more elaborate the better. I love strolling along the paths admiring the architecture and the stillness of these miniature cities. The unexpected beauty and serenity of these ancient burial grounds create an ideal atmosphere to reflect on life and clear my head. Cemeteries from this time also provide intriguing insight into the history of the city.

Here are three cemeteries that I recommend exploring.

Amazing Italian Race

As I closed the heavy wooden door behind me and turned the stone corner of the building, I stopped suddenly as if I had encountered a glass partition. In the gravel courtyard below, my rental car was snugly nestled in by a car I did not recognize.

It was the morning after the wedding of two dear friends in Tuscany, and I woke up feeling a little rough around the edges. When I was planning the details of the trip, the idea of heading to Munich the day after the wedding seemed like a reasonable itinerary; except for the minor detail that the train to Munich left at 10am from Florence. And I was staying outside Siena, 90 miles away.

During the week-long wedding festivities, I had made friends with an English couple and offered to give them a ride to Florence that day since I had a car.

At 7:30 that morning I met Ruth and Gareth outside the Tuscan villa, where all the wedding guests were staying, and an unexpected sight greeted me. My car was completely blocked in by a car that I did not recognize. As the shock of the situation quickly sunk in, we began to formulate a plan.

Weekend Oasis

I was desperate to get out of town. Over the last few weeks, the incessant traffic and concrete fortress of my urban neighborhood was threatening to swallow me whole. I longed to be somewhere where I could hear the birds sing, see the stars dance at night, and most importantly, be able to ramble aimlessly up a mountainside. On the advice of some friends, I decided to explore Anza –Borrego Springs Desert State Park for the first time on a recent weekend.

The town of Borrego Springs is only a two hour drive from San Diego and was an easy journey at the end of the work week. My goal for the weekend was to explore the desert, hike, and enjoy the desert evenings.

The first morning, I woke up shortly after sunrise due to the chatty birds conversing loudly in the early morning sun. With a spring in my step, I quickly got ready for the day of hiking and enjoyed a cup of fresh coffee in the crisp morning desert air. Having arrived after dark the previous night, I wasn’t prepared for the spectacular stark desert scenery that stretched out before me. It was hard to absorb the endless shades of brown and grey of the desert hills, the crisp brilliant blue of the cloudless sky, and the sun glowing in the morning air. Perfect. I could feel the stress of the city already easing from my shoulders.

The Long March

Even after being in the country for over a week, I am still surprised by the daunting heat that hits me as I board the long-tail boat that ferries me from the train station to the island of Ayutthaya, the former capital of Thailand. As my travel companion and I push our way through the gaggle of food carts and impromptu markets, I realize that I have no idea where we are going.

I went through my mental guidebook and realized that I had read quite a bit about the historical sites that I wanted to see on this day trip, but didn't pay much attention to the logistical details. I had envisioned that I would arrive to the island by boat and there would be miles and miles of temple ruins bordered by the three rivers that intersected the city. Sadly that romantic vision was not to be. Ayutthaya was a thriving congested city and there wasn’t a temple in sight.

Finding Inspiration

Inspiration comes in many forms. This past year, my inspiration came in the form of a coffee shop. Not just any coffee shop, but a coffee shop that also doubles as a wine room, study hall, symphony hall, and prime people watching venue.

For many months, I walked by Café Bassam, a new addition to my neighborhood, with rapid interest. Before long, my curiosity got the better of me and I finally decided to check it out.

My first journey to this oasis was last spring when I was faced with the delicious aspect of having a weekend with no plans. Armed with research for an upcoming trip to Budapest, I sat down to read and have a glass of wine. As I read and surveyed the room, I was immediately drawn into the warmth of the clientele. The coffee shop itself is a hodgepodge of decoration; antiques are scattered throughout the bright airy room and patrons lounge on overstuffed chenille sofas or crowd around delicate wooden tables. The European proprietor, who resembles Uncle Fester from the Addams Family, floats around the establishment conversing and laughing with the locals. I was soon surrounded by excited conversations delivered in a variety of languages. It made me wistful of days spent in lovely European cafes over the years and I felt blessed to have something similar in my own backyard.

Stirring operatic and classical music filled the air and magically set the scene for me. I sat watching the eclectic crowd reading classic novels and studious text books, writing wildly in their notebooks and on their laptops, and laughing with friends. The hum of activity was contagious. I had the stark realization that I was envious of them. It had been far too long since I had challenged myself intellectually or done anything in the way of stretching myself. Inspired by the energy of Café Bassam and the support of dear friends, I made a pact that first day. I decided to stop making excuses and finally start tackling my long abandoned dream of  travel writing. No time like the present!